One missed bus to the airport, one diverted flight, landing in Amman instead of Aqaba, one canceled snorkeling session in the Read Sea, cloudgazing instead of stargazing, risking death 589437 times in Petra, two freezing cold showers, (almost) one camel bite, one canceled hot air balloon flight, one injured middle toe, a couple of thunderstorms, a lot of fog.
But also one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, breathtaking natural formations, timeless historical sites, former movie sets, rewarding hikes, mouthwatering food, delicious mango and pomegranate juice, soothing bedouin tea, relaxing wellness activities, floating in the Dead Sea, endless aromatic spices, colorful scarves, tons of fluffy cats.
What can I say, Jordan was unexpected, to say the least. But that doesn’t mean that I didn’t love it. On the contrary, I was blown away by the grandeur of the Treasury and even more by the Monastery at Petra, and while hiking the Little Petra to Petra back door route I just let myself soak in all the beauty that was surrounding me (while sweat was soaking in my shirt, but that’s another story).
But Jordan is not only home to one of the New Seven Wonders. In fact, I can’t tell whether I liked Petra or Wadi Rum the most. Bad weather aside, I have to admit that when people say that it looks like Mars, they are right. As if I actually knew what Mars really looks like, lol. And let’s not mention floating in the Dead Sea. Accidents and bad weather aside (again), it is a unique experience that everyone should try once in their lifetime. I mean, struggling to maintain an upright position can become a comic turn (my attempt after smashing my middle toe certainly was).
My biggest regrets were not being able to snorkel in the Red Sea due to my limited time in Aqaba because my flight was diverted to Amman, try canyoning in Wadi Al Mujib because it was closed in November, and visit the Dana Biosphere Reserve because again, some areas were closed in November. But that’s just another reason for me to go back to Jordan very soon!
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Arabic is the official language. English is also widely spoken by educated people, and you won't have any problems being understood at tourist attractions and in main cities. French is also spoken by some people. But, as always, if language is a barrier, technology comes to the rescue. Google Translate is my lifesaver every time I travel somewhere.
The national currency is the Jordanian Dinar (JOD 1 = ~USD 1.40, ~EUR 1.30). It comes in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, and 50 dinars notes. Coins come in 1 qirsh (1⁄100 dinar), 5 qirsh/piastres (5⁄100 dinar), 10 qirsh/piastres (10⁄100 dinar), 1⁄4 dinar, and 1⁄2 dinar denominations (very rare). Some places take Euros and US Dollars but it's better to always have dinars at hand.
The standard voltage is 230 V and the frequency is 50 Hz. So, if your device is dual voltage (e.g., Input 100/240V) and/or you come from a country that runs on a standard 220V system, you won't need a converter. However, Jordanian power plug sockets can be of Type C, D, F, G, and J. For this reason, I highly recommend bringing a universal adapter.
There are banks, ATMs, and currency exchange counters at airports, shopping malls, and larger cities. Do not rely on ATMs in remote areas like Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, inside Petra, and at the Desert Castles. Withdrawal fees are high (around JOD 5 / ~USD 7, ~EUR 6.50), and withdrawal limits are generally quite low (around JOD 250 / ~USD 352, ~EUR 327). The exchange rates used by currency exchange counters in Amman are favorable, and exchanging money can save you hefty ATM fees. Credit cards are quite widely accepted everywhere, except for smaller accommodations and restaurants, private transportation, and tourist sites. Visa is the most widely accepted type of card followed by MasterCard.
Jordan has three main mobile operators, Zain, Umniah, and Orange. Each of them has stalls in the airports and offers special tourist packages. After comparing the different prices, I ended up choosing Umniah, which had the best value for money. The Tourist line includes 100 local minutes, 100 local SMS, 20 international minutes, and 30 GB of data for 10 days for only JOD 10 (~USD 14, ~EUR 13). This way you can stay connected and travel worry-free, especially because most public places don't have Wi-Fi. Concerning website and app restrictions, I experienced some problems with WhatsApp's call and video call functions, which did not work on a mobile connection and rarely worked when connected to Wi-Fi.
Jordanians are typically kind, friendly, and hospitable. They are very proud of their cultural heritage, and will try to make you feel part of their world. As for many Arab countries, Jordan is generally socially conservative and highly values family and honor.
While it is less restrictive in terms of clothing than other Middle Eastern countries, Jordan is still a predominantly Muslim country. Therefore, I suggest you to dress conservatively also as a sign of respect towards their religion and culture. If you're interested, you can read my ultimate clothing guide for more details.
In Jordan, haggling is practically a national sport, so you might wanna flex your bargaining muscles because the first price is never the last. Concerning taxis, instead, you can check the suggested price on Uber first, but then insist on using the meter. Trust me, your wallet will thank you later!
On the other hand, tipping is a big deal in Jordan, with tips often making up the majority of some service industry workers' salaries. A tip of 1 to 10 dinars is standard, but rounding up the amount owed or leaving the change is also a common practice.
Lastly, just like Italy, Jordan has a relaxed approach to time, so don't be surprised if five minutes turn into half an hour. Just order a refreshing limonana and sip your way through the day.
From my personal experience as a female traveler, I would say that Jordan is a safe place to visit. As in many countries, female travelers might receive some unwanted attention and might be victims of verbal and physical harassment, but luckily these are episodic events.
Jordan's political situation is stable, with limited – and generally peaceful – protests mainly in Amman. Crime levels are normally low and normally limited to Amman, the main crime types being pickpocketing, episodic bag snatching, and theft from private vehicles.
It is advisable to avoid all travel to Syria, all but essential travel within 3 km of Jordan’s border with Syria, and all travel to the Iraqi provinces bordering Jordan. Generally, be careful in all border areas, especially when crossing into a bordering country.
Concerning road travel, don't accept lifts from strangers, and always ask your hotel to recommend a reliable driver. Female travelers should not ride in the front seat of a taxi. There are several checkpoints where the police carry out random security checks. Keep your ID documents always at hand.
Organized tours and diving operators' quality can vary greatly. Check the safety standards beforehand and avoid doing activities unaccompanied. Always make sure to be sufficiently fit for the activity, wear appropriate clothing, and bring sufficient food and water. Don’t travel to places where heavy rain is expected for at least one day afterward. In case of a flash flood, go to a high point and don’t attempt to cross the water. If you’re in a vehicle try to drive to a dry spot.
All international visitors except from Arab nationals need a visa to enter Jordan, but many nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival for JOD 40 (~USD 56, ~EUR 53) directly at the immigration counter. All airports and the Jordan River/Sheikh Hussein Crossing between Jordan and Israel issue visas on arrival, but depending on your point of entrance, visa rules might differ, so please check in advance.
There is also the possibility to purchase the Jordan Pass, an all-in-one package that includes the cost of a tourist visa and free entry to around 40 of Jordan’s tourist attractions, including Petra. It is a very cool feature that I highly recommend buying.
Read my ultimate guide to the Jordan Pass for everything you need to know about the Jordan Pass, and check the FAQs at the end of the article to see if you are eligible for a visa on arrival.
BY PLANE
The main airport in Jordan is Queen Alia International Airport (30 km from Amman). Visitors can fly directly into Queen Alia International Airport from many European, North American and Asian cities. In case of no direct flights, connecting flights are available on a daily basis.
Travelers can also fly to King Hussein International Airport (10 km from Aqaba) and claim a free visa (provided that they leave Jordan from the same border) thanks to Aqaba being a special economic zone. However, please note that flight availability might be more limited compared to the main airport.
BY BOAT
If coming from Nuweiba, Egypt, it is possible to enter Jordan from the Gulf of Aqaba by ferry. Visitors can choose between the Meenagate ferry (departure at 6 am) or AB Martime (departure at 12 pm). By entering via Aqaba, tourists can claim a free visa (provided that they leave Jordan from the same border).
VIA LAND BORDERS
From Egypt, visitors will need to travel via Israel between Taba (Egypt) and Aqaba (Jordan). There are no customs at the crossing between Egypt and Israel. From Taba, get a taxi straight into Eilat, Israel, and enter Jordan via the Yitzhak Rabin Terminal/Wadi Araba Crossing (see below).
From Israel, there are three border crossings (Israel-Jordan: NIS 109 / ~USD 30, ~EUR 27, NIS 190 / ~ USD 52, ~EUR 47 for King Hussein Bridge; Jordan-Israel: JOD 10 / ~USD 14, ~EUR 13):
Amman is served by public transportation, but there are no timetables and no official bus stops (buses pick you up and stop on demand). On top of that, many buses will depart only when they are fully loaded. Uber is a cheap and efficient alternative, as – contrarily to taxis – you know your fare in advance.
To get around in the country, there's the tourist bus option with different routes provided by the Jordan Express Tourist Transportation Company (JETT). These buses operate on a fixed schedule and do not accommodate pick up or stops on request. Tickets must be purchased in advance on the official website and they are very affordable (~JOD 10-20 / ~USD 14-28, ~EUR 13-26 per route; reduced fares for children).
If you prefer private transfers, there are many organized tours available, or you can even hire a private driver, which is the option I ended up choosing (~JOD 45-75 / ~USD 63-106, ~EUR 59-98 per route depending on the distance).
Lastly, there is also the possibility to rent a car. It is possible to drive in Jordan using an International Driving Permit with third-party insurance. However, according to Jordanian law, a driver is always considered guilty if they hit a pedestrian and they can face charges and imprisonment. Front seatbelts are required by law and there are stringent speed limits. On the plus side, though, as long as you avoid the big cities, the highways are large and normally empty. Mountain roads are quite a different story, as they can be bumpy and have many hairpin turns.
In theory, yes, you can. In practice, it can taste salty as it goes through a series of purification steps to make it clean and safe to drink.
I would still use tap water for brushing my teeth, showering and washing fruits and vegetables. However, I would stick to water bottles for drinking.
Anyways, be mindful of the environment and do not waste water, especially because Jordan suffers from severe water scarcity.
Before planning your trip, check for overlaps with the sacred Muslim month (the dates change each year). Normal service operations can be subject to change.
Spring (March-May), Fall (September-November)
The weather is pleasant (neither cold nor scorching) and generally dry, which is ideal for all the outdoor activities Jordan has to offer. This means these are also the high seasons, so account for peak season pricing and larger crowds. If you're into canyoning, March and November can be tricky months, though, as Wadi al Mujib only opens April 1st–October 31st (exceptions apply depending on the weather conditions).
Winter (December-February)
The weather is generally cold and wet (heavy rains and flash floods can be expected). Some attractions are either normally closed or are suddenly closed due to bad weather, so be prepared to adjust your itinerary on the fly. On the plus side, prices are lower, and there are fewer tourists.
Summer (June-August)
The weather is hot and dry, and some regions (Dead Sea coast, Valley of Jordan, Aqaba) top 38-45ºC. Traveling during this period is possible, but it can be challenging due to the extreme temperatures, so be ready to start early and avoid the midday sun. Drink lots of water and reapply sunscreen frequently.
Similarly to other Middle Eastern countries, Jordan can be an expensive destination. With a strong currency and limited accommodation options for travelers on a budget, expenses can quickly pile up without you even realizing it. Accommodations tend to be at least 3 stars hotels and most options charge around USD 100 per night. Dining out costs around USD 30-50 for two people (no wine). Non-alcoholic beverages cost USD 5-10 depending on the place, while you can expect to spend USD 30+ for a bottle of wine (only at selected bars and restaurants).
Therefore, excluding flights, you can expect to spend around USD 1,000-2,500 / EUR 900-2,200 per person per week for your trip in Jordan (assuming that you have 4 private long-distance trips and that you purchase the Jordan Pass). However, this is highly subject to change depending on the type of accommodation, transportation, and dining experience you want to have (as well as the number of souvenirs you want to buy and extra activities you want to do). Moreover, you can expect to save if you travel with other people, as hotels are charged per room, and private transportation is charged per car.
Dining: USD 30-50
Street food: USD 10-20
Transportation (private): USD 60-100 (per long-distance trip)
Car Rental: USD 10-20
SIM Card: USD 10-20 (for the entire stay)
Travel insurance: USD 50-80 (for the entire stay)
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